Leather Glossary

Aniline dyeing:
 The process of dyeing the hide with transparent dyes which penetrate the cell layers throughout. This process produces deep, vibrant colors while simultaneously preserving the unique characteristics and natural markings of the hide. This process could be compared to staining wood as opposed to painting it. 

Bridle Leather: Using only the highest quality hides, bridle leather goes through an intensive finishing process that involves adding special oils, grease and wax polishes to coat the top layers. This deepens and evens the color, while also maintaining a smooth finish. This leather is comfortable enough to wear on the face of a horse, but also tough enough to withstand heavy repeated use while repelling sweat and dirt. 

Calfskin: Leather derived from young bovines, which provides a finer grained, lighter and more supple leather than that from an older cow. 

Chrome Tanning: Leather tanned with chromium salts, and/or chromium sulfate, as opposed to vegetable tanning, which uses natural tannins found in tree bark and other plants. 

Crocking: The transfer of color and oils from dyed leather. 

Deerskin: Deer and elk skins wherein the grain remains intact. 

Embossing: The use of pressure to impress into the leather a texture in imitation of full grain. Embossing is also the process of using heat and pressure to impress monogrammed initials.

Fat Liquors: An emulsion of oils and greases in water, typically with an emulsifying agent, used to lubricate the fibers of the leather. 

Fat Wrinkle: Fat deposits in the animal cause fat wrinkles on the surface, a sure sign of a healthy, well fed animal. These wrinkles are visible most in full grain leather. 

Full Grain: A term used to describe a hide that has had the hair removed, but otherwise has not been sanded, buffed or corrected in anyway. Full grain leather is the strongest, finest grade of leather made from the outer most part of the hide, therefore showing any wrinkles and marks. Over time these marks are enhanced by wear and develop a rich, unique patina. 

Goatskin: Skin from a mature goat.

Grain: The texture and pattern of a hide’s surface. 

Lambskin: Skin from a lamb or young sheep. 

Leather: The skin of an animal that has been treated, dressed and preserved. 

Patina: The resulting appearance of leather over time. Knicks, scrapes, bumps, friction and pressure, oils coming to the surface and receding, all cumulatively give each piece of leather a unique appearance.

Skiving: Slicing, shaving, or splitting leather into a thin layer, especially in areas where pliability is desired without weakening the leather. 

Split Grain: When splitting the leather, two pieces are created: the top grain, and the split grain, which is the lower, weaker half of the hide. Often times this leather is pigmented and embossed to imitate full grain leather. 

Suede: The buffing process used on split leather, which creates a nap. 

Tannery: The place in which animal hides are tanned and processed. 

Tannin: Astringent substances of plant origin used in tanning leather. 

Tanning: The treatment of animal skins that prevents decomposition, as well as increases durability. This process permanently changes the protein structure in the hide, and can take over 6 hours.

Top Grain Leather:  Made by sanding off the surface of the leather; and then imprinting the surface with an imitation “leather texture” leading to a completely uniform look. 

Vegetable Tanned LeatherHides are stretched on racks and submerged in a solution of tannins – a naturally occurring molecule found in most plants. We use tannins from trees such as chestnut, oak and hemlock. Over a period of weeks, the hides are transferred to vats with higher tannin concentration to create a strength and durability. This process results in natural color hides which are them drum dyed with propriety formulas to create rich, deep brown and cognac colors. We then stuff the leather with natural oils, fat liquors and waxes to create a supple leather with a pull-up effect that helps prevent wear and tear over the life of our leather goods. 

Will Leather Goods is proud to offer WILL's guarantee.

We cover manufacturer defects in leather workmanship and hardware by replacement of your bag or a gift certificate if the bag is no longer available. 

To begin the replacement process please fill out this form:

Guarantee Form

PROOF OF PURCHASE is required.

Unlimited Warranty (valid from date of purchase)

1 Year Limited Warranty (valid from date of purchase)


All Warranty Repair requests must be processed and validated by our Warranty Team.


Our lifetime guarantee is a warranty against defects in materials (leather and hardware such as snaps, zippers, buckles, rivets, etc.) and workmanship. Our leather, as with all natural materials, will occasionally have unique characteristics such as: small scars, creases and variations in the color and are not considered defects. Validated warranty repairs are repaired or replaced at no charge.

Due to the nature of leather and vintage materials our warranty does not cover natural wear and tear from daily love. Worn edges or corners, natural fading and softening of materials is an expected occurrence.  We guarantee the foundation of our product will hold your belongings safely. We find that patches and natural wear are a part of the story that unfolds as your product grows with you. One of a kind, Vintage and Found product may need to be patched or stitch due to the nature of vintage material. 

Maintain your favorite leather pieces regularly to ensure soft and supple leather. Leather can be cleaned and restored with a regimen of leather care products designed to clean, condition and protect. Leather Care can help maintain your product longer. Please see our Leather Care page for more information. We recommend conditioning your leather at a minimum of every 6 months. Learn more about how to care for your leather.

If you are in a dryer (hot or cold) climate please condition your product as soon as it feels less supple, dull or faded. Vegetable tanned leather when conditioned should feel slightly oiled and look rich. Similar to the nature of skin it needs to be moisturized as soon as it feels dry. We charge $25 + shipping for conditioning or head to a store for onsite conditioning for Free and the full Will Leather Goods experience.


Product Care Information

We highly recommend using leather care treatment to maintain and preserve your leather products: Product Care

Our wax coated canvas is coated with paraffin which makes this water-resistant, but not waterproof. If your canvas product gets wet, we recommend you let it air dry thoroughly in a warm dry place. If at any time your canvas has scratches or marks, these can typically be reduced by using a hair dryer on medium heat to help the wax soften and absorb back into the canvas.

By purchasing products from Will Leather Goods you agree to the terms in our Lifetime Warranty. Will Leather Goods reserves to right to alter, edit or cancel our Lifetime Warranty without notice.

The general rule of thumb for our belts is to go up two sizes from your pants size. Please note that sizing may vary depending on the cut and brand of pants.

Looking to try it out beforehand? Come into a Will store near you for "custom fitting"!
Pant Size Men's Size Women's Size
26 28 XS
28 30 XS/S
30 32 S
32 34 M
34 36 L
36 38 XL
38 40 XL
40 42 -
42 44 -
Still not sure about your size? Just contact us and we'd be happy to help you out!
The sizes are determined by buckling the collar and measuring the inside circumference.
Small Medium
11" (1st Hole) 15.5" (1st Hole)
9.75" (3rd Hole) 14" (3rd Hole)
8" (5th Hole) 12.5" (5th Hole)
Large X-Large
20" (1st Hole) 23.75" (1st Hole)
18.25" (3rd Hole) 22" (3rd Hole)
17" (5th Hole) 19.75" (5th Hole)

The monogram has existed since 350 B.C., but came into popularity as steam ships started to cross the Atlantic to help identify the trunks and luggage of the travelers. Today, the monogram remains a functional identifier, while also lending personal style to your leather goods.

dark monogram

Personalize your product or gift with a monogram in either our small 1/4" font or our large 1/2" font. We use traditional heat stamping to deboss into our vegetable tanned leather.

All-in-One Leather Solution

All-in-One Leather Solution

Protect your investment piece with our specially-formulated All-In-One Leather Solution to ensure the lifetime of your leather collection. Handcrafted by expert artisans all over the world, our leather goods deserve to be treated with care.

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Mink Oil Crème

Mink Oil Crème

We use only the best leather made to stand the test of time. Handcrafted by expert artisans all over the world, our leather goods deserve to be treated with care. Protect your investment piece with our Mink Oil Crème to ensure the lifetime of your leather collection.

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Standard 30 Day Return Policy Chart
Two Percent Details
Partner Details

Starting in summer 2018, Will Leather Goods is investing 2% of every Will Leather Goods purchase to give kids in America a bag to carry their dreams – with an ambitious goal of donating 100,000 backpacks to kids across America by 2025.

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